Behind the scenes, scientifically, at In-Cosmetics

Flash and glitz are the name of the game at In-Cosmetics Global, the annual personal care ingredients show, held this year in Amsterdam. But in an effort to display the science behind the latest lotions and potions, Reed Exhibitions, organizers of the April 17–19 event, offered for the first time what they billed as exclusive R&D tours for formulation professionals.

Promising a look at the most compelling ingredients and sophisticated technologies at the show, cosmetic chemist and consultant Rouah Al-Wakeel led groups of about 20 on the tours. One, for instance, focused on biotechnology-derived active ingredients.

Wearing wireless headphones, the group followed Al-Wakeel through the massive RAI exhibition center, which was hosting nearly 800 exhibitors and 9,000 visitors. Some of the ingredients she highlighted offered antiaging benefits or skin protection against environmental pollutants.

Along the way, Al-Wakeel introduced speakers who detailed their newest products. For instance, Guglielmo Bifulco of Kalichem described Kalinat DNA, an ingredient he said is capable of increasing skin thickness and elasticity and of stimulating the immune system. He recommended the product for antiaging creams and formulations intended to sooth air-pollution-stressed skin.

Fred Zülli, managing director of Mibelle Biochemistry, talked about MossCellTec No. 1, an ingredient that “enhances cell nucleus function for resilient skin.” An extract from Physcomitrella patens moss, it rejuvenates aged skin cells, allowing them to quickly adapt to changes in climate, Zülli said. He hinted that MossCellTec No. 2 and extracts with additional benefits are coming soon.